Equipment

HOW TO CHOOSE A HOCKEY STICK

Blade curve, flex, kickpoint, and length -- what actually matters when buying your next stick.

In this guide:

FlexBlade CurveKickpointLengthLieMaterialPrice

FLEX -- The Most Important Factor

Flex is how much the shaft bends under pressure, measured in flex points. It's the single most important factor in how a stick performs. Get it wrong and nothing else matters.

Rule of thumb: Flex ≈ half your body weight

75 flex

110-140 lbs

80 flex

130-160 lbs

85 flex

150-180 lbs

90 flex

170-195 lbs

100 flex

190-220 lbs

110 flex

220+ lbs

Softer flex (75-85): Easier to load, better for players who rely on quick wrist shots and board play. Good for younger players, beginners, and players under 160lbs.

Stiffer flex (90-110): More energy stored on hard shots, better for slap shots and one-timers. Better for stronger players, defensemen taking blue-line shots, and players over 190lbs.

STICK LENGTH

The most common mistake is buying a stick that's too long. Most players can play with a stick that's slightly short easier than one that's slightly long.

How to measure: Stand in skates, stick on ice

The stick should reach between your chin and nose. If you're in bare feet, add roughly 1-1.5 inches for the height of your skates.

Too short

Below chin

Quick release, easy to handle. Can be restrictive for slap shots.

Right size

Chin to nose

Ideal range. Versatile for all shots and situations.

Too long

Above nose

Harder to handle, slower release. Can affect shot accuracy.

KICKPOINT

Kickpoint is where the shaft flexes most when you load a shot. It determines what kind of shots the stick excels at.

Low Kickpoint

Flexes near the blade (lower third of shaft)

Best for: Wrist shots, snap shots, quick releases -- ideal for players who shoot in close

Examples: Bauer Vapor (low), CCM Ribcor (low)

Mid Kickpoint

Flexes at the center of the shaft

Best for: Most versatile -- works for a wide range of shots and player styles

Examples: Bauer Supreme (mid), Warrior Dynasty (mid)

High Kickpoint

Flexes near the hands (top of shaft)

Best for: Slap shots and one-timers from distance, loads from full extension

Examples: Bauer Nexus (high), CCM Tacks (high)

BLADE CURVE

Blade curve affects where the puck goes when you shoot. There are three main types. Most players have a preference, and it develops with experience.

Open Face (P02, P06)

Toe of the blade curves inward significantly

Ideal for: Goalies, players who shoot high, players who need to lift pucks over sticks

Watch for: Can make shots sail high if not controlled

Closed Face (P29, P88)

Gentle curve through the entire blade

Ideal for: Versatile shooters, accurate wrist shots, all-around play

Watch for: Less automatic lift on shots

Heel Curve (P92)

Curve starts from the heel of the blade

Ideal for: Board battles, forehand wrap shots, plays along the wall

Watch for: Less precise for high shots

STICK LIE

Lie is the angle of the blade relative to the shaft -- measured 1-6 (low to high). A higher lie means the blade sits flatter on the ice when you're in your natural stance. Getting the lie right means the whole blade contacts the ice evenly.

Quick lie guide

Lie 4

Shorter players / smaller skates

Lie 5

Average height players

Lie 6

Taller players / larger skates

MATERIAL & PRICE

Most modern sticks are composite (carbon fiber / fiberglass / graphite). Entry-level sticks are often hybrid (composite shaft with binary blade). Ice hockey sticks come in three main constructions:

Single-piece composite

$180-$400+

Lightest, best energy transfer, most consistent flex

Expensive, more brittle on contact

Two-piece (replaceable blade)

$120-$250

Easier to replace blades, good value

Slight energy loss at joint, slightly heavier

Hybrid (composite shaft + foam blade)

$80-$150

Durable, affordable, good for beginners

Heavier, less responsive feel

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