HOW TO TIE HOCKEY SKATES
A step-by-step guide to lacing hockey skates the right way. Covers the standard crisscross method, the knot, how to fix lace bite, and three advanced techniques (lock, double cross, drop eyelet) for specific problems.
WHY PROPER LACING MATTERS
Skates are the only piece of hockey equipment that's between the player and the ice for every stride, every turn, every stop. Laced properly, they lock your heel in place, support your ankle, and let you push hard without your foot sliding around. Laced poorly, they cause blisters, lace bite, ankle injuries, and lost power on every stride.
For beginners especially, the right lacing is the difference between "hockey is fun" and "my feet hurt." Take three minutes to learn it right.
BEFORE YOU START
Sit down
Lace while seated on a bench, with the skate on a rubber mat or carpet. Never lace while standing.
Heel pushed back
Press your foot firmly back into the heel pocket. Your toes should lightly touch the front of the boot — that's the right position.
Tongue placement
Make sure the tongue is centered and not twisted. A twisted tongue creates a pressure point that gets worse as you tighten.
Loose laces to start
Pull all the slack out of the laces before tightening. You're going to tighten from the toe up, not the top down.
THE STANDARD CRISSCROSS METHOD
This is the lacing 90% of hockey players use. It's simple, secure, and works for almost everyone. Master this first; learn the advanced methods only if you have a specific problem to solve.
Step 1
Thread the lace through the bottom eyelets
From outside the boot, push each end of the lace through the first eyelet on its own side. The lace should now have one end coming out of the inside of the left eyelet, the other out of the inside of the right eyelet.
Step 2
Pull both ends even
Pull the lace through until both ends are the same length. This matters — uneven laces mean you'll run out of lace on one side at the top.
Step 3
Cross over and up
Take the right lace and thread it through the next eyelet up on the left side (from outside in). Do the same with the left lace on the right side. You now have an X across the tongue.
Step 4
Repeat, working up the boot
Continue crisscrossing one eyelet at a time, all the way up the boot. Every time you cross, the laces should pass over the tongue and through the next eyelet up on the opposite side.
Step 5
Snug, not tight, at every level
After each cross, pull both ends to remove slack. You want firm pressure, but not enough to compress the foot. If your toes start to tingle, you've gone too far.
Step 6
Tighten the ankle area
The second-from-top eyelet pair is where the laces should be tightest. This is what locks your heel in the boot and prevents your foot from sliding side-to-side.
Step 7
Cross the laces twice at the top
At the top eyelets, cross the laces over each other twice (not just once). This is the secret to a knot that doesn't slip mid-stride.
Step 8
Tie a double bow
Make a loop with one end, wrap the other end around it, pull through — that's a bow. Repeat. The double bow is the standard hockey finish.
FIXING LACE BITE
Lace bite is a sharp pain on the front of the ankle, caused by the laces pressing into the tendon that runs across the top of the foot. It can ruin a game. Three reliable fixes:
Skip a lower eyelet pair
The simplest fix. Don't thread the lace through one of the eyelet pairs in the lower ankle area. This creates a gap so the laces don't pass directly over the tendon. The rest of the lacing stays the same.
Use lock lacing at the top
Lock lacing redirects the lacing pattern so the pressure is on the sides of the ankle, not the front. Details below in the advanced section.
Replace the tongue
If lace bite is chronic, the issue might be a thin or worn tongue. Aftermarket tongues with extra padding (Bauer, Sherwood, and CCM all sell them) add cushion directly over the tendon.
THREE ADVANCED METHODS
Most players stick with the standard crisscross. These three are worth knowing for specific problems.
Lock lacing — for lace bite or extra ankle support
How: Lace the skate normally up to the second-from-top eyelet. At the top, cross the laces, then thread each end through the top eyelet on the same side (don\'t cross at the very top). Pull snug, then tie normally.
Why: The pattern redirects pressure to the sides of the ankle, not the front. Excellent for players prone to lace bite or anyone wanting extra heel lock.
Double cross lacing — for laces that keep slipping
How: Lace the skate normally. At the top eyelets, cross the laces over each other twice (instead of once) before making your bow.
Why: The double cross creates extra friction at the top, which keeps the laces from loosening during play. Trade-off: harder to untie at the end of a game.
Dropping an eyelet — for more ankle flex
How: Lace the skate normally all the way up, but skip the very top eyelet pair. Tie off below the top.
Why: Skipping the top eyelet gives the ankle more forward flex — a deeper knee bend and a longer, more powerful stride. Many NHL players do this. Trade-off: less ankle support, so it\'s not ideal for beginners still building ankle strength.
LACE LENGTH QUICK REFERENCE
Youth (skate size 1-3)
72" – 84"
Youth (skate size 3-6)
84" – 96"
Junior (skate size 6-9)
96" – 108"
Senior (skate size 9+)
108" – 120"
When in doubt, bring the skates to a hockey shop and ask. Most shops will measure the eyelets and sell you the right length. Laces should be long enough for a comfortable double bow, but not so long that the extra lace dangles into the blade.
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